The Amazing History Of Siamese Fighting Fish

Author:

Peter Myles

These small tropical fish are placid when on their own, and suprisingly aggressive towards other male Bettas. They can live in the smallest of bowls. In the wild they have even been found living in water-filled buffalo hoofprints...

Betta Fish (e.g. Siamese Fighting Fish) are tropical native fish to the Southern parts of Asia and the countries of Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia.

Betta Fish thrive in the natural wilderness, and in places where there is small reedy like pools, slow flowing creeks and shallow ponds. Considered the most beautiful of all tropical fish, they get their name 'Siamese Fighting Fish' (e.g. Betta Fish) because of their aggressiveness towards other male Bettas.

They\'re also aggressive in nature too because they have to survive in smaller bodies of water, and therefore tend to fiercely protect their area (where they live) or they\'ll lose out on breeding with a female Betta (who shares the male Bettas pond, stream, etc.) to a more dominate male Betta fish.

Sometimes Bred For Fighting

People have been breeding Siamese Fighting Fish for MANY thousands of years. In places like Thailand for example... they even breed betta fish for fighting. The Bettas which are bred as ornamental types are usually MUCH prettier though, than the Bettas bred for fighting.

These Siamese Fighting Fish we love to call betta fish also have a very unique characteristic which actually makes them much different in some respects to other types of tropical fish.

HOW?

Because these special fish can breath both through their gills, and through a special organ called the 'labyrinthine' which allows the Betta fish to take in pure oxygen when there is a limited supply of oxygen found in its water environment.

Maintaining Healthy Betta Fish

Bettas are fresh water tropical fish which love shallow water, and thrive in warmer temperatures around the 30° mark. Nevertheless, if you live in a more temperate climate, then you\'ll need to add an aquarium heater to your tank. This is especially so if the temperature of the water tends to drop below the 18° mark.

The Betta fish can oftentimes survive in poorer quality water, but you should always endeavor to change the water frequently to ensure that your pet Betta is happy, healthy and active. These gorgeous long fin beauties really do need their water changed at least 'one to three' times a week. And if you decide to put your pet Betta in a small bowl then you may need to change the water every few days.

Bettas are prone to pick-up a number of common diseases like dropsy and fin rot which in most cases are more or less associated with the quality of water in which they live. In a home tank environment there are special medicines available such as 'Bettafix' which is excellent for aquarium fish like the tropical Betta Fish.

Aquarium Tank Space

Although not advised a Betta fish will live in small bowls and tanks. Many times Bettas are kept in small plastic jars and even smaller glass containers or a betta tank purchased from the local pet shop.

It\'s always best though to keep Bettas in separate containers unless you are thinking about breeding. Another thing to watch out for is trying to put different varieties of tropical fish in a single bowl or tank.

WHY?

Because long finned, redish colored tropical fish almost always pick-on Betta Fish. Tropical fish such as 'tiger barbs, serpae, and even tetras' which tend to attact the Bettas flowing fin.

Anyone can own a Betta Fish. They\'re an especially good animal to have as a first-time pet owner or somebody that has very little time or space in their lives for a regular size pet.

And Betta fish are also very low maintenance as well.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/the-amazing-history-of-siamese-fighting-fish-1067656.html

About the Author

Peter Myles is an expert in the care and breeding of betta fish as well as betta fish care and offers free tips and advice at his website www.bettafishguru.com

Koi Colors

Koi Colors
by: David Maguire


The beauty of Nishikigoi, or koi fish, is that they come in a variety of colors and diverse patterns that never cease to amaze its audience. With a name that literally means brocaded or decorated carps, they continue to captivate many people with their unending assortment of colors and varieties. Koi colors vary depending on their classification, although hobbyists continue to develop different types and classifications for these magnificent aquatic creatures.

To be able to easily identify the many types of this fish, familiarity with koi colors is important. For example, Bekko can be easily recognized since its main characteristic is a single colored koi with black stone patterns (or sumi) on their body; Shiro Bekko is white-skinned, Aka Bekko is red-skinned, and Ki Bekko (which is the rarely seen) has a striking bright lemon yellow color.

Many features are also included to their already beautiful colors. In the case of Hikarimono (also known as Ogon koi), where the fish are single-colored, they have metallic scales that adds luster to their features. The name Hikarimono is a derivative of the Japanese word "hikari" meaning metallic, and the word "mono" that refers to its characteristic of being single-colored. These days, this variety is commonly being crossbred with GinRin (which means silver "Gin", and gold "Rin") to create an effect for scales that are even shinier than the common metallic koi fish.

In some cases, it's the pattern of these colors that make up the name of the koi variations. Example of this is the Shusui, which is a Japanese name that means "Autumn Water". Its name was given because of the color blue along its lateral line with red colorations on the underside of the body that has an effect of falling leaves during the autumn season. Mirror scales that are seen from the back of the head to the tail can almost be seen as flowing water above their red color. Many of these names are pretty poetic like in the case of a Shusui variety, Hana Shusui ("Hana" in Japan means "flower") where the red coloration has a wavy pattern that creates a flowery effect.

However, there is one variety of koi fish that seem to stand out because of an odd behavior of changing color patterns. Kumonryu is a scaled Doitsu koi with markings around its body. Often seen as black with white markings in the winter and white with black markings during spring and summer, to this date no one can tell what changes its color. Some theories that have been made are changes made by temperature or PH levels of water. This type of koi is developed by breeding a Shusui with a Matsukawa Bakke.

These fascinating creatures continue to spark our interest and curiosity with their ever changing characteristics. It doesn't take much to take care of these fish. They are hardy and omnivorous; their gentle and friendly nature allows them to co-exist harmoniously. For many koi enthusiasts, the pleasure of keeping and caring for koi fish is often found in the serenity these amazing creatures bring to their environment.


About The Author
Information about the different varities of koi, koi colors, and patterns. For more information, visit us at http://www.koicolors.net






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10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction
by: Laurentiu Craciunas


Betta splendens is one of the most wanted fish in everyone's aquarium. Breeding Bettas is not hard, though you might face problems at spawning them. They are oviparous fish, the male builds a nest in which the eggs/fry are kept for few days under the strict care of the Betta male. If you follow the next advices, you have big chances to get nice results of your Betta fish spawning.

1. Reproduction tank equipment: volume of 15-20 liters, a heater, a thermometer and air pomp connected to an air rock which will spread small bubbles. You need small bubbles because the fry are very sensitive to water movements and you don't want them to suffer.

2. The aquarium water must have a temperature of 28-29° C, a higher temperature will hurry the eggs hatching and the fry won't be fully developed. Keep the temperature constant using the heater and check it with the thermometer to make sure it is at the right level.

3. The water depth mustn't excel 10-15 cm because the Betta eggs are denser than water and they fall down from the nest. The male picks them up in its mouth and brings them back in the bubble nest, but a water column over 15 cm will tire it after few repetitions.

4. Cover the reproduction aquarium with a lid in order to keep the same temperature for the air inside the aquarium. The fry develop their labyrinth after about 30 days and they are very sensitive to temperature changes. The lid also protects against air flow which could ruin the bubble nest.

5. Select a compatible pair of Bettas. At first attempts you'll only want to get some fry and you won't be interested in colors/fins, but after some successful spawns you'll be more pretentious. So you'll chose same colored Bettas or even more, you'll look for developing some nice fins (double tails, crown tails, half moons, etc) but this is another discussion...

6. Introduce the male in the evening and only next morning introduce the female, considering that the male has already built the bubble nest. During the night keep the female in a jar near the aquarium and assure some light in order to make eye contact between the male and female; this will stimulate the bubble nest building.

7. The next day, after introducing the female, the Betta male will brutally chase her. That's why you have to put some plants in the corners of the aquarium in order to assure hiding places for the female. Also make sure you add some floating plants in order to help the bubble nest building.

8. After the first successful egg evacuation, the male (sometimes the female too) will take them (in the mouth) from the bottom of the aquarium and bring up in the bubble nest. You don't have to panic because this is a natural thing, so don't take the fish out thinking they eat their eggs ;)

9. A good pair of Bettas can spawn up to 400-500 eggs, after which the female has to be taken out from the aquarium because the male will brutalize her in order to protect the nest. Put the female, for a few hours, in a jar with water where you added some metilen blue in order to prevent eventually infections caused by the wounds.

10. After about 48 hours the fry will hatch and the Betta male will assure they stay together in the bubble nest. After another 2-3 days the fry will swim free. Now it's time to take out the male and start feeding them with Paramecium and/or Artemia salina (Baby Brine Shrimp).

This is it ;) 10 tips for a successful Betta splendens reproduction. You can find advanced information on specialized websites, books, etc, but following this article should familiarize you with the Betta splendens reproduction needs.

About The Author

Laurentiu Craciunas has been breeding Betta splendens for over 5-6 years now and he wants to share his experience with others too. You can read more aquaria related articles on his website: http://www.tropical-aquariums.com.

Betta Fish Is The Perfect Pet Fish

Betta Fish Is The Perfect Pet Fish
by: Rosalinda Zamora


I still remember the first time I saw two beautiful looking fish in a friend's house. One fish was blue and the other was red, and they were swimming majestically in their fishbowls. That was my first encounter with a fish species known as Betta fish or Betta Splendens or Siamese Fighting Fish (three names that refer to one fish).

Up until today, I'm still keeping a few of them in my house, and they make perfect pet fish for my family. Every member of my family loves them.

Why do I like most about Betta fish, you may ask. Definitely, I have many different reasons, but here are three of them.

1. Betta fish are beautiful pet.

It's a tropical fish that comes with different colors such as red, blue and yellow. Some Betta fish have more than one color on their bodies. Believe it or not! I can spend hours looking at how Betta fish move in their bowls but even if you don't know a thing about Betta fish, you will be mesmerized by their colors alone.

2. Betta fish are easy to care.

Betta fish are hardy type of fish and they can live in a small container. A small fishbowl is enough to house one Betta fish, but be aware that two male Betta fish shouldn't be placed in one container. Or else, these two Betta fish might fight until death (that's why they are also called Siamese fighting fish).

3. Betta fish are responsive.

If you have a Betta fish in a small fishbowl and you move closer to the fish, you'll see that your fish will turn its head to look at you. That's what makes me fall in love with Betta fish. They are responsive to your presence and aware that you are there, unlike many other pet fish.

So, you can now consider if you want to adopt Betta fish as your family pet or for your kids. They are lovable creatures and you will know it immediately one you have a Betta in your house.

About The Author
Rosalinda Zamora is a betta fish lover. To get FREE info about caring for betta fish, go to http://www.BettaFishSecret.com and she'll surprise you with more awesome articles from betta fish experts.

Betta Care: Points to Remember

Betta Care: Points to Remember
by: Michael Hickmon


Once you have chosen the living space for your betta fish, then you are almost ready to add your fish to their new environment but there are some important points that you should take into account for optimum betta care to keep your fish free from danger and disease and to keep them healthy.

When decorating your betta’s home you should:

1. Take care to avoid jagged rocks and decorations because the betta fish could tear their fins on these. Stick to smooth surfaces when thinking about optimum betta care.

2. Make sure that you avoid any hard plastic plants as they can damage the betta’s fins because they can be quite rough. If you are not sure about the roughness of the plants, then why not try the ‘pantyhose test.’ Rub the plastic plant over a pair of pantyhose and if they snag or rip them then this means that the plants might damage the betta’s fins. To be safe, by silk plants to increase betta care and happiness.

3. You don’t have to use live plants but they can be a great addition to the betta fish tanks. Betta’s enjoy hiding in the leaves to sleep and they can be much prettier than silk plants- and gentler on the betta’s fins.

Another important point to consider when it comes to betta care is the water preparation. You should always use a water conditioner for any fish when putting tap water into a tank, and it is important to note that chlorine in the water can be harmful to betta fish. You can also let the water stand for a few days to remove the chlorine, but it is still very important to use a conditioner to remove chloramines.

When you fill your tank, you should fill it to about 80% of its capacity if it is an open top tank because when motivated, betta fish can jump over 3 inches! And you don’t want your fish to leap out all over the place. you can use a mesh cloth which sits over the top of the tank so that the fish are not encouraged to jump and your can add extra water which will make the betta fish happier and can access the surface air easier. Before you add the fish to the tank, be sure to test the temperature of the water, it must be maintained at 78-82 degrees so a small heater will make this easier to do because the water temperature is often cooler than room temperature. You are now ready to add your betta fish to the tank!


About The Author
The author has created a review site that provides you with the most in-depth and complete analysis of the best betta care guide called Caring for Betta Fish.


Visit the author's web site at:
http://pet-whisperer.com

Betta Fish Care

Betta Fish Care
by: Ong Hui Woo


Betta is a popular tank fish and its maintenance is least painful. However, it does need care and you must be observant about its heath. A sick Betta is easy to spot since naturally the fish is very active and vibrant. If you have had the fish for a while you will be able to spot immediately when they are unwell.

Following tips can help you keep the Betta ecosystem healthy and vibrant:

1. A bowl large enough to allow ample swimming space is a prerequisite. The fish shouldn’t bump and tear its fins or scales. A large enough tank also ensures that the water has adequate oxygen level.

2. These fish do not require filtration but need the cleanest water you can provide them. Change the water every three days to keep it clean and avoid infection in your fish. The water you add to the tank should have set out for 24 hours (aged water).

3. Bettas are also called Siamese fighting fish because the male of the species will fight each other to death! Never put two males in the same tank. Females can stay together and so can one male with many females. You can also keep your Betta with algae eaters, guppies and corydorus catfish.

4. Ensure that the bottom of the bowl or tank is debris free. You can use something as simple as a turkey baster to do this cleaning. Debris sitting at the bottom will make the water cloudy and unhygienic for the fish. They will also cause the water to smell.

5. Maintain the tank pH at 7.

6. When cleaning the tank accessories, avoid using soap because traces of soap will change the water pH.

7. Betta can jump out of tanks and bowls, so keep them covered.

8. Betta is not a fussy fish and will happily eat the Betta pellets and frozen bloodworms. However, Bettas are fond of live food such as brine shrimp, and you must serve it as a treat now and then.

About The Author
Ong Hui Woo
Betta Fish Owner
http://www.tothefish.com

Discus Fish

Discus Fish
by: Gendo Ikari


Discus Fish

The Discus fish is a South American Cichlid that belong to the genus Symphysodon, which currently includes three species: The common Discus fish (Symphysodon aequifasciatus), the Heckel Discus fish (Symphysodon discus) and a new species of Discus fish which has been named Symphysodon tarzoo. The Discus fish was first introduced in the 1920’s and is now regarded as one of the most beautiful of all aquarium fish. While they are colorful and attractive, they are quite difficult to care for; nevertheless, their popularity continues to rise.

As the name implies, Discus fish have the typical disc-shaped body with full dorsal and anal fins reaching to the tail. The body of an adult Discus fish can reach about 8 to 10 inches in diameter. Originally, due to the environmental diversity of the vast Amazon River basin separate populations developed differential in color and markings. Discus fish breeders have greatly expanded upon this and developed new variations through selective breeding, with the colors and patterns of the Discus fish varying according to the type of species bred, habitat and diet.

Discus fish are widely found in calm parts of small, blackwater rivers, lakes and deep pools throughout the Amazon River basin. The water is usually very clean with little or no pollutants, acidic (6.0-6.5 pH), very soft (0-3 dH) and warm with a temperature of around 77-84°F (25-29°C). They are usually found in small groups around submerged decaying trees, vegetation and aquatic grasses. Discus fish are wild-caught in the Amazon River basin at night by using a strong light to mesmerize the fish, the area is then encircled with netting and slowly drawn closer, with all obstructions such as wood being removed. Some species of Discus fish are now considered endangered in some areas of the Amazon River basin.

For more information visit this Discus fish guide.
http://cichlidbreeding.net/cichlid-breeding/discus-fish/



About The Author
I am a fish breeder. Visit my Cichlid breeding site to learn more. http://cichlidbreeding.net

Setting Up Aquariums: Where Do I Start?

Setting Up Aquariums: Where Do I Start?
by: Joe Haworth


Setting Up Aquariums: Where Do I Start?

Aquarium equipment

To set up fish tank aquariums you will need this equipment: filter, lighting, heater, gravel, plants and décor. You will also want replacement filter media and aquarium test kits to examine water parameters and monitor the nitrogen cycle. I enthusiastically advise buying entire system fish tank aquariums which come with all the necessary aquarium equipment. This means you are not confused as to what precisely you need for setting up your fish tank or bewildered by the range of numerous types of equipment for sale. Purchasing tank aquariums with all you want gives you peace of mind and relieves a lot of pressure!

Establishing your aquarium

Before buying an aquarium you need to decide on the space you have free and investigate the adult size of the fish you want to keep, both of which will suggest the size and shape of aquarium that would be suitable. Considering all this has been carefully designed and your perfect aquarium is sitting with all the essential equipment ready to be set up, you can follow these steps to stress-free successful aquarium setup.

1. Position aquarium (on a stand, if needed) in an area away from direct sunlight, draughts and heat, as these alter the light and temperature of the fish tank. Also make certain that the floor is able to support the total weight of the aquarium when filled with water (approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water).

2. Rinse out the aquarium with water as hot as you can tolerate. Do not use detergents or soaps as residue will be detrimental to tropical fish.

3. Position the under-gravel filter in the bottom of the fish tank (if your aquarium comes with one), following the instructions included.

4. Wash the gravel thoroughly in hot water using a sieve to take out any dust or debris. Add the gravel to the aquarium, covering the under-gravel filter. Create a gentle slope of gravel, deepest at the back.

5. Wash all artificial decorations and plants in hot water and arrange in the fish tank.

6. Fasten the aquarium heater to the inside of the tank with its suction cups but do not plug it in for at least 30 minutes until the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, otherwise the heater may shatter. Obviously, you need to have researched the species you anticipate to keep to learn about specific temperature requirements.

7. Set up the aquarium filter following the instructions enclosed, placing the filter media inside.

8. Put a dish on the bottom of the aquarium to break the force of the water and fill the aquarium with water that is at room temperature. Add de-chlorinator to the water if you are using tap water that is unfiltered. Look for any rare leaks as you fill the tank. (They are easily repaired with aquarium silicone).

9. Unless the lighting of the aquarium is previously fitted underwater, place the light on top.

10. Plug in all the equipment and check that everything is working correctly. Ensure there is a dip in the cord before it reaches the electrical outlet, known as a 'drip loop'. This ensures the water drips off onto the floor and does not pass directly into the electrical socket.

Your aquarium is now ready to run in its self but is still not ready for sustaining freshwater fish. Beneficial bacteria needs to be established first, and the aquarium environment then needs to change as new fish are gradually added.

How to proceed after initial aquarium setup

Allow the tank to settle and the water stabilize for some days. During this time you should keep monitoring the water parameters using aquarium test kits to ensure they are ideal for the fish you intend to have (temperature, pH, hardness, and ammonia).

Nitrogen cycle

You will then need to begin the nitrogen cycle so your fish tank will be ready to support healthy tropical fish (see related article 'Setting-Up Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums: The Nitrogen Cycle').

Aquarium care

When the nitrogen cycle is finished and you start adding fish to your fish tank, you should start on a maintenance plan. Each day make sure that fish are healthy, especially during feeding times, and make sure that the filters and heaters are functioning properly. Wash your tank every one to two weeks and carry out 25% water changes once a month.

http://www.tropical-fish.me

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This article is brought to you in association with Enigma Web Design


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Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?
by: Addison Ercanbrack



* Why does my aquarium stink?

When the mosses mix with the water, the water becomes dense and sticky. Mosses live through in the oxygen in the water. They excrete carbon dioxide that causes the water to become stinky.

* Why is my aquarium green?

The green colors that appear in your aquarium are mosses. They are water plants that serve as foods for the fishes. Sometimes the green pigment will mix with the water causing it to blur.

* How do I clean my aquarium?

When your aquarium already has noticeable mosses around it and already emits an unpleasant smell, it's time to clean your aquarium. Cleaning an aquarium is as easy as washing dishes in the sink. All you have to do is remove the fish in your aquarium first. Transfer them temporarily to a bowl or a pail with water. After transferring the fish into the bowl remove and discard the stinky water in your aquarium. Remove all other equipment in your aquarium including rocks and accessories.

Wipe your aquarium with a smooth surface sponge so that the glass will not be scratched. You may use other glass cleaning substances but be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly before putting the fish back in. The substances you have used may contaminate your pets and can damage their skin. If you use tap water to refill your tank, be sure to treat it first with a chorine neutralizer. Again, the chlorine in tap water can damage fish and frog's skin.

* What cleaning supplies do I need for my aquarium?

Cleaning your aquarium does not need complicated tools, supplies and processes. All you need are smooth-surface sponges, a small amount of glass cleaner and water. A small brush may also be used to clean your aquarium accessories. Soap may also be ideal to use instead of glass cleaner. Just be sure that whatever substance you use you clean thoroughly. As mentioned above, the cleaners may contaminate and damage your pet. So, be sure to rinse the aquarium well.

* What do I do with the fish when I clean my aquarium?

In cleaning your aquarium, you have to transfer your fish into a bowl with water that has been treated in advance with a chlorine neutralizer. Use a net to transfer fish to avoid accidents. Catch the fish and slowly transfer them into the bowl of treated water.

About The Author
Addison Ercanbrack is a regular contributor to aquarium and fish-related resources such as http://www.AquariumsTips.com.

Efficient Care Requirements For Aquarium Fish

Efficient Care Requirements For Aquarium Fish
by: Low Jeremy


You need not to purchase the most expensive kinds of fish just to set up the best aquarium. This can be luxurious already. What you need to know is the proper way of maintaining your aquarium to make it pleasing to the eyes at all times.

Besides all other aquarium supplies, the fish is the most important. It cannot be called an aquarium without the species that will swim into it. This can come in varying types depending on the aquarium you put up.

Aquarium fish can be purchased in extraordinary color patterns. It comes in red, white, green, purple and even blue. In most cases, the male fish has brighter color and longer fins than the female fish. Typically, the more vibrant is the better because it can add appeal inside the aquarium.

There is a specific lifespan for the fish. However, it can be changed through your maintenance. There are times that fish has longer lifespan but due to your negligence, it can be shorten to months instead of years. This will just be a waste of money so better to take note of this factor.

Below are some reminders for proficient care of your aquarium fish:

1. Have regular check for the unnecessary things that may fall into the aquarium.

Cleanliness is very essential for your maintenance. This will not concern the pleasing appeal of the aquarium alone but most particularly the health of the species residing in the habitat. You can use filtration supply on this matter. Cleaning habit can be done weekly or you can do it gradually if you see some falling food remains at the top of the aquarium.

2. Beware from buying aggressive species.

Peaceful types of fish are more advisable because aggressive specie can affect the entire habitat. One can kill the other. Prevent this scenario to happen because you can probably end up with your aquarium to nothing.

3. Do not overfeed the aquarium fish.

Some fish are only required to be fed once a day although others are for twice. Overfeeding is not helpful nor will it make your fish grow larger instantly. Many cases have shown that it can cause death to your fish.

4. When changing the water, add product that will remove chlorine in the water.

Chlorine can be toxicant for your fish. You can purchase products from pet stores in order to eliminate the amount of chlorine in the water.

If you care for your fish, then better follow the advice that will cater your aquarium fish needs.

About The Author
This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more information on aquariums, how to maintain, the basics of owning one, please visit http://aquarium.articlekeep.com

Koi Carp Ponds – Essential Guide to Getting Started Part 2

Koi Carp Ponds – Essential Guide to Getting Started Part 2
by: Michael C. Harris


A great way to begin planning for Koi carp ponds is to view how others of have successfully designed and built their ponds. Searching online is the fastest and easiest way to get started, as there is an endless resource of photos and information to be found there. Seeing how others have done things can spark wide imagination and creative ideas into how you would like your Koi pond to look, and the potential of how it could enhance the overall impression of your garden landscape. Decorations of plans, stones, statues, wooden ornaments and fixtures can have a dramatic and pleasant impact on the dynamics of your Koi garden. However, in regard to including any plants in your pond, be sure to take into consideration that Koi will eat certain plants as well as dig into the soil, which could lead to a potential messing of the pond water thus leading to more frequent cleaning and maintenance. There are plants that are suited well for Koi carp ponds, and covering the plant soil with stones or large gravel can alleviate much of this potential problem. Another great way to include plants in your pond development and keep them safe from your Koi is to put them in a floating island pond planter. Floating islands are great for decorating your Koi pond with beautiful plant life while at the same time providing needed shade and protection from predators for your Koi fish. Again, professional advice is golden.

When seeking the help of an expert, it is wise to do your research first. Get an understanding of the specific questions you should be asking as well as a general sense of the answers you should be getting. Talk to several specialists as apposed to only one or two. Visit your local pet stores to gain knowledge on Koi keeping, Koi supplies and pond equipment, along with construction and maintenance of Koi carp ponds. Get yourself familiar with why you need a Koi pond filter, a Koi pond pump and maybe an aerating device, and how these vital necessities work together to provide a natural, stable Koi fish environment while supplying healthy clean water for your Koi to live and thrive. Develop an awareness of the consistent routine work of Koi keeping and pond maintenance, including water pH level testing, pond and filter cleaning, Koi feeding and inspection of any parasites or diseases, along with any general garden maintenance such as weeding and algae removal.

Protection from predators is a factor to take into consideration at the planning stage of Koi carp ponds. Koi supplies such as overhangs or pond net covers could prove invaluable in keeping your Koi fish safe from other hungry animals. Also, ensuring that the pond water has enough depth for the Koi to submerge out of sight from predators, as well as shading themselves from direct sunlight when needed, is a necessary element in the planning of your Koi pond.

Budgeting for the costs of running and maintaining your pond should be well thought out before hand. Shop around by researching online, as well as visiting your local pet stores, for prices on all things necessary and get a clear idea of what Koi carp ponds entail in regards to buying Koi fish, Koi food, pond cleaning supplies, water testing and treatment supplies, pond filter media, the potential energy costs of running pond filters, pond pumps, fountains and waterfalls, along with the construction materials and tools required to do the job properly. Making a concise list sorted into categories with sub totals of each will allow you to develop a clearer idea of potential monthly and yearly running costs.


About The Author
Get your FREE 10 day Koi Carp Fish Care mini course today at http://www.koifishschool.com Michael C. Harris is a Koi specialist. For more great tips on Black Koi, Koi care, breeding and Koi pond construction and maintenance, visit http://www.koifishschool.com today.

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?
by: Addison Ercanbrack


* Why does my aquarium stink?

When the mosses mix with the water, the water becomes dense and sticky. Mosses live through in the oxygen in the water. They excrete carbon dioxide that causes the water to become stinky.

* Why is my aquarium green?

The green colors that appear in your aquarium are mosses. They are water plants that serve as foods for the fishes. Sometimes the green pigment will mix with the water causing it to blur.

* How do I clean my aquarium?

When your aquarium already has noticeable mosses around it and already emits an unpleasant smell, it's time to clean your aquarium. Cleaning an aquarium is as easy as washing dishes in the sink. All you have to do is remove the fish in your aquarium first. Transfer them temporarily to a bowl or a pail with water. After transferring the fish into the bowl remove and discard the stinky water in your aquarium. Remove all other equipment in your aquarium including rocks and accessories.

Wipe your aquarium with a smooth surface sponge so that the glass will not be scratched. You may use other glass cleaning substances but be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly before putting the fish back in. The substances you have used may contaminate your pets and can damage their skin. If you use tap water to refill your tank, be sure to treat it first with a chorine neutralizer. Again, the chlorine in tap water can damage fish and frog's skin.

* What cleaning supplies do I need for my aquarium?

Cleaning your aquarium does not need complicated tools, supplies and processes. All you need are smooth-surface sponges, a small amount of glass cleaner and water. A small brush may also be used to clean your aquarium accessories. Soap may also be ideal to use instead of glass cleaner. Just be sure that whatever substance you use you clean thoroughly. As mentioned above, the cleaners may contaminate and damage your pet. So, be sure to rinse the aquarium well.

* What do I do with the fish when I clean my aquarium?

In cleaning your aquarium, you have to transfer your fish into a bowl with water that has been treated in advance with a chlorine neutralizer. Use a net to transfer fish to avoid accidents. Catch the fish and slowly transfer them into the bowl of treated water.

About The Author
Addison Ercanbrack is a regular contributor to aquarium and fish-related resources such as http://www.AquariumsTips.com.

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction
by: Laurentiu Craciunas


Betta splendens is one of the most wanted fish in everyone's aquarium. Breeding Bettas is not hard, though you might face problems at spawning them. They are oviparous fish, the male builds a nest in which the eggs/fry are kept for few days under the strict care of the Betta male. If you follow the next advices, you have big chances to get nice results of your Betta fish spawning.

1. Reproduction tank equipment: volume of 15-20 liters, a heater, a thermometer and air pomp connected to an air rock which will spread small bubbles. You need small bubbles because the fry are very sensitive to water movements and you don't want them to suffer.

2. The aquarium water must have a temperature of 28-29° C, a higher temperature will hurry the eggs hatching and the fry won't be fully developed. Keep the temperature constant using the heater and check it with the thermometer to make sure it is at the right level.

3. The water depth mustn't excel 10-15 cm because the Betta eggs are denser than water and they fall down from the nest. The male picks them up in its mouth and brings them back in the bubble nest, but a water column over 15 cm will tire it after few repetitions.

4. Cover the reproduction aquarium with a lid in order to keep the same temperature for the air inside the aquarium. The fry develop their labyrinth after about 30 days and they are very sensitive to temperature changes. The lid also protects against air flow which could ruin the bubble nest.

5. Select a compatible pair of Bettas. At first attempts you'll only want to get some fry and you won't be interested in colors/fins, but after some successful spawns you'll be more pretentious. So you'll chose same colored Bettas or even more, you'll look for developing some nice fins (double tails, crown tails, half moons, etc) but this is another discussion...

6. Introduce the male in the evening and only next morning introduce the female, considering that the male has already built the bubble nest. During the night keep the female in a jar near the aquarium and assure some light in order to make eye contact between the male and female; this will stimulate the bubble nest building.

7. The next day, after introducing the female, the Betta male will brutally chase her. That's why you have to put some plants in the corners of the aquarium in order to assure hiding places for the female. Also make sure you add some floating plants in order to help the bubble nest building.

8. After the first successful egg evacuation, the male (sometimes the female too) will take them (in the mouth) from the bottom of the aquarium and bring up in the bubble nest. You don't have to panic because this is a natural thing, so don't take the fish out thinking they eat their eggs ;)

9. A good pair of Bettas can spawn up to 400-500 eggs, after which the female has to be taken out from the aquarium because the male will brutalize her in order to protect the nest. Put the female, for a few hours, in a jar with water where you added some metilen blue in order to prevent eventually infections caused by the wounds.

10. After about 48 hours the fry will hatch and the Betta male will assure they stay together in the bubble nest. After another 2-3 days the fry will swim free. Now it's time to take out the male and start feeding them with Paramecium and/or Artemia salina (Baby Brine Shrimp).

This is it ;) 10 tips for a successful Betta splendens reproduction. You can find advanced information on specialized websites, books, etc, but following this article should familiarize you with the Betta splendens reproduction needs.

About The Author

Laurentiu Craciunas has been breeding Betta splendens for over 5-6 years now and he wants to share his experience with others too. You can read more aquaria related articles on his website: http://www.tropical-aquariums.com.

Japanese Koi Pond/Water Garden

Japanese Koi Pond/Water Garden
by: RC Moore


There are a lot of people that will tell you not to put Japanese Koi and plants together. Pet stores and internet articles suggest that koi will destroy any plants you put in your pond. I have been keeping Japanese Koi in my water gardens for six years without any Koi destroying any of the plants. The plants provide shade and shelter for the koi when spooked, and add to the water clarity.

Japanese Koi are by far the most beautiful and desirable fish you can keep in an outdoor water garden. In Japan, breeding koi has occupied a position between hobby and art form for more than two centuries. To keep Japanese Koi in a water garden you have to understand that they are bottom feeders who are most at home rooting around, in and among the rubble found on the bottom of their natural environment. As a matter of fact, the purpose of the famous whiskers is to help them root around more efficiently in the rocks/ rubble. Putting a layer a gravel in your pond will give the koi something to root in and will also add to the natural biological environment. Plants will also benefit from being directly in the gravel. I always remove plants from their pots, and rinse the roots before planting in a bed of gravel, which adds to the natural beauty of the water garden.

It is true that koi eat plants. It is also true that in the warm summer months they are none stop foragers. I describe them as eating machines. That is why it is important to keep plants they can eat without destroying. My two favorite are watercress and marsh betony planted in a shallow high water flow area. Trust me, you will need the koi to help you keep these invasive plants in check and may still have to thin late in the season. These plants are excellent filters which will help keep the water crystal clear and the koi happy.

Floating water hyacinth can result in the koi eating the roots. I usually plant in the shallow stream just below the waterfall. Their roots bury deep in the gravel to provide excellent filtration. They tend to grow taller and bloom less. Mine have grown 3 foot tall and extend 12 feet down the stream and seem to benefit from the splashing of the waterfall. This is another plant that will have to be pulled in the fall. Pickerel Rush is another plant that enjoys the splashing from a waterfall. I use them to hide the liner below the waterfall and they have bloomed constantly all season. More info at koipondfever.com

About The Author
RC Moore, content writer for http://koipondfever.com.

Koi Food Secrets to Raising Quality Koi

Koi Food Secrets to Raising Quality Koi
by: RC Moore


Japanese koi are the most colorful and magnificent fish that you can keep in any fresh water environment. The different color and pattern variations associated with the different koi varieties can be like an artist painting on each fish. Even the white of the Platinum Ogon koi can be breathtaking. Especially for a fish that can grow to 30 inches and live to 50 years in the right environment. From the Asagi to the Utsuri, there are many factors involved in raising these magnificent koi. Many koi keepers have done all the right things in creating a koi pond large enough, with plenty of water movement and filtration to keep and grow large koi. They may buy quality Japanese koi that started out looking great, but as time goes by may loose koi to disease or have the colors seem to wash out. Many koi keepers overlook the importance of using a premium koi food that meets all the nutritional needs of their koi. It's like humans eating a diet of junk food and expecting to be trim and healthy and live a long life.

Bentonite Clay

The Japanese have spent many years developing the different breeds by careful selection and also developing their own formulas of food for the best growth, color, and health. The best koi in the world are grown in mud ponds in the fertile valleys of Niigata in Japan. The reason for this is because of the minerals present in the clay of these mud ponds that ad to the color and health of the koi. Dainichi is the only koi food that incorporates bentonite clay in their koi foods. Bentonite clay contains over 60 minerals and trace elements that aid in enhancing digestion and growth, as well as neutralizing metabolic toxins. Koi that have a poor diet will show up in the whites looking dingy, especially in the face where it will look more yellow than in the rest of the koi. You can also add bentonite clay directly to the pond water to help stabilize the water ph. Koi will ingest significant quantities of silt and other indigestible detritus from their natural environment which will act to bulk out the diet. Having gravel in the bottom of your pond gives a place for this silt and detritus to build up without having the turbid water that you would in a mud pond. It will also harbor worms and small crustaceans that the koi will feed on. Water lilies can be taken out of the pots and planted directly in the gravel adding to the ecosystem of the pond.

High Protein

The metabolism of koi reaches a peak at water temperatures of 75° F. During this time it is essential that they receive a high protein diet to aid in growth and color. They also need to be fed at least twice a day, three times is better. Koi do not have stomachs, and when their metabolism is high they forage constantly. Fish meal and krill for color are protein ingredients to look for in a high quality koi food.

Koi Eat Plants

There are a lot of people that will tell you not to put Japanese koi and plants together. Pet stores and internet articles suggest that koi will destroy any plants you put in your pond. Koi are omnivorous and need vegetable matter in their diet. A high quality koi food will contain spirulina algae which also enhances color. Since koi forage constantly it is good to grow a plant in your pond that will keep up with the appetite of the koi. Watercress is an excellent plant food source for koi. Watercress contains significant amounts of iron, calcium and folic acid, in addition to vitamins A and C, and koi love it. It is best to plant on a shallow ledge with rocks around it to keep the koi from pulling up the roots. You can buy it in the produce section of your grocery store. Just stick it in some shallow water in gravel and it will grow.

Different Foods for the Seasons

During the cooler seasons of spring and fall it is best to feed a food that is higher in vegetable matter, lower in protein, and easy to digest. In the summer months, when the water temperature is above 70° F switch to a higher protein formula. When the water temperature is above 70° F it takes about 16 hours for the food to move completely through a koi digestive tract. At 50° F it can take up to 60 hours and food intake is much less. Only feed the koi as much as they will eat within a few minutes. It is much better to feed 3 times a day in the summer months. At 50° - 55° feed 2 - 3 times a week. When the water temperature goes below 50° F do not feed the koi at all. If the food is not digested due to the low metabolism it can rot in the gut of the koi and cause death.

Cost Versus Quality

If you consider the cost of a high quality food versus the "cheap" foods, there is not that much difference. Keeping healthy koi using a high quality food means fewer outbreaks of disease and lower mortality rates. You are not spending money replacing koi or treating for disease with medications due to poor health because of a poor diet. You also have to go by weight and not just the physical size of the bag. Cheaper foods tend to be more airy while the premium foods tend to be more dense, so it looks like you are getting more food than you actually are with the cheap food. Many times, if compared by weight, the price is pretty close. In the long run it may actually be cheaper to buy the premium food. You will definitely notice the difference in the color, growth, and overall health of the koi over just a short time.


About The Author
RC Moore, Content writer for KoiPondFever.com

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.koipondfever.com



Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_2004.shtml

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 - My First Experience With Goldfish

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 - My First Experience With Goldfish
by: Jonathan Wangsa

If you are seriously considering keeping fish as pets or are just starting out, I would like to stress again the importance of having some basic knowledge about aquariums and fish keeping in order to enjoy the hobby for a significant length of time and to avoid frustrations and disappointments.

In the first article I illustrated this by sharing my own childhood experience with bettas, and now I shall share my experience with goldfish.

While I still had my bettas I also wanted to keep some goldfish since I also found them attractive and interesting. My mom was reluctant to buy me some since I already had the bettas but she finally gave in and bought me a pair of "telescope" goldfish.

At the time I didn't have a real aquarium yet so we put the goldfish in a large jar (about 1 gallon). One of our neighbors told us that goldfish wouldn't tolerate chlorine and therefore, we should not use tap water. They happened to have a well and offered to let us use the water for my goldfish.

I soon noticed that the fish were constantly gasping for air at the surface. They also refused to eat. After a couple of days the water started to become cloudy, so I changed it totally. However, the fish still refused to eat and continued to gasp for air. Not long after that they became lethargic and eventually died.

My mom said probably "telescope" goldfish just weren't hardy enough and not easy to keep. However, I had not given up on goldfish yet, so I asked if I could try to keep other kinds and hopefully would have better luck. My parents eventually consented but my dad suggested that I get a real aquarium instead of putting the fish in a jar. You can imagine how elated I was that finally I was going to have a real aquarium.

So we went out and bought a 10 gallon aquarium and a few goldfish at the same time. I believe we bought 4 fish: a couple of medium sized "comets" and a pair of "pearl scales." We didn't buy them at a store, though. It was more like a wholesale type of place where there were plenty of different sellers selling their aquariums and fish. Again, at the time neither my mom nor I knew much about fish keeping. So we didn't buy any supplies for the aquarium. Just the tank and fish. That was it!

When we got home I filled up the aquarium with untreated tap water and immediately put the fish in. I was so excited to see the goldfish swim around in the tank, but that didn't last long. In a few hours the fish were no longer lively. They sort of stayed at the bottom and didn't move very much.

When my dad saw them he said they probably lacked oxygen and suggested that we go out and buy an air pump to aerate the tank. I had only seen aerated aquariums in places like public aquariums and fancy restaurants and thought that an air pump had to be very expensive, but my dad said it would be OK.

So my mom and I went to a fish store to look for an air pump. Besides the pump we also needed something to hook the plastic tube on to and hold it in place. We chose to get a frog ornament for that purpose (the air would come out of the frog's mouth). All the stuff didn't really cost too much.

As soon as we got home we hooked everything up and air started flowing into the aquarium. Like magic, within a couple of minutes the fish started to "wake up" and finally became lively again. My dad said, "I told you so!"

The air pump was about the only supply we bought for the aquarium. Having beautiful and lively goldfish in my very own aquarium was good enough for me. I loved them so much that I also fed them too much. I was happy to watch them eat. As you can imagine though, the water got dirty very quickly that I had to change it every day.

One day a friend of ours told us that we shouldn't be changing the water daily since it wouldn't be good for the fish. Also, in the mean time I had read somewhere that if you wanted to use tap water you should set it aside for a few days to get rid of the chlorine. Therefore, I set aside a bucket of water and changed 3/4 of the water about every 3 days.

I was able to enjoy the goldfish for a few months before one of them got sick and died and the others followed soon after. I was extremely sad and because of that my dad told me I couldn't buy any more fish. So, after all my fish died my hobby came to a sad end. Well, at least for a while.

Again, there is a take-home lesson here: if you're serious about having your own aquarium, there's some basic knowledge you need to possess before you even buy the aquarium and fish. You don't have to know everything there is to know about the hobby, but at least for the sake of the fish, you should understand a few things (such as how many fish you can have in a tank, how much to feed them, what kinds of aquarium supplies to have, and what kinds of maintenance you need to perform, just to name a few) that are crucial to their well being.

If you're an expert you most likely picked up on the things I did wrong in the story I shared above. If you're a beginner or just thinking about getting started with this hobby, I invite you to visit my web site (see below) to learn more.

About The Author

Jonathan Wangsa is the webmaster of http://www.all-about-aquarium-supplies.com. There you can find resources and information about aquarium supplies and other aquarium related topics. Whether you're an expert or a newbie, you can also share your own experiences. Get a Free Special Report when you sign up for a Free Monthly Newsletter.

Silver-tipped (Hasemania nana) - ornamental fish

Silver-tipped

Silver-tipped (Hasemania nana) comes from Venezuela and Guyana. These fish are very fond of herbivore and feeds from vegetables (water lettuce). Optimum temperature to be able to multiply approximately 25-27 ° C. Water is suitable for life should have a pH of about 6,5-7,0 and violence around 8-10 ° dH.




The size of silver-tipped body can reach a maximum of 9 cm. Silvery body with small scales. In addition, there are black spots behind the gill cover and the base of the tail.

These fish are somewhat aggressive, often biting the other fish, especially for smaller fish. Therefore it is not suitable fish kept with other fish. Containers for spawning a pool or tub with a density of about 100 ekor/m2 For mass spawning, the male and female ratio 1: 4. As a place to attach their eggs, it takes the form of the substrate or nest of water plants.

Eggs are attached to the substrate will hatch within 24 hours. The larvae will swim about 2-3 days after hatching.
Replacement of water on the maintenance of the larvae after the larvae began to swim. The amount of water as much as half the volume change of water. Replacement of this water should be routinely done every two days. Feed the first larvae of infusoria. Later, lice can be replaced pakannya water after the seed and adult sizes.


Growth of these fish so quickly that spacing should be more frequent. This needs to be done to maintain the nature of aggression against a smaller fish. When maintenance is done well, at the age of 1.5 months to sell the size is reached, which is about 2.2 cm.

source: Darti S.L and Iwan D. PenebarSwadaya, 2006

Discus Fish Care: The Importance of the Water

Discus Fish Care: The Importance of the Water
by: Michael Hickmon


When it comes to discus fish care, it can be a quite complicated task to make sure that you fish are happy and healthy and getting everything that they need, discus fish are not really recommended for beginner aquarists but if you would like to give it a try, then there are some important factors that you should consider when it comes to discus fish care, and one of the most important factors in the health of a discus fish is the water.

Discus fish come from the Amazon River and so they are used to warmer and more acidic water types. The ideal temperature for a discus water tank should be around 26-31 C for adult fish and for baby discus and young discus fish, the ideal temperature of the water should be kept at 31 C. it is important for the water to be soft and acidic with a pH lever of between 5.5 and 6.5, and this is an ideal pH level for wild caught discus fish to maintain their health.

Many aquarists think that the water in a discus fish tank should be changed often (this is the same with any fish tank) but if you maintain a well planted tank that includes adequate filtration, lighting and bottom dwelling fish to clean up the mess that discus leave behind after eating, then this should keep the tank a lot cleaner and the water clearer for longer and you can simply top up the tank every other day with RO water. When it comes to the plants and other fish that you decide to keep in the water with your discus fish, you should choose fish and plants to compliment the discus so that they are able to thrive and do well.

When it comes to captive discus fish which have been bred, then it is possible for them to adapt to harder water which makes discus fish care that little bit easier. Captive discus can survive in water with a pH balance of up to 6.8 (this is not suitable if you are attempting to breed discus however, soft and acidic water is best for breeding) when the pH balance is low then it protects the discus fish from the poison of toxins which allows the discus to live in conditions that are almost the same as the water conditions that they were evolved from.

It is important to note that a pH level which drops below 5 can inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria which can exist in the filter that you provide. So when it comes to discus fish care you must remember that the temperature and the pH balance of the water is very important any drop or change in the pH can cause the discus to get sick and can even cause them to die, which is why that it is not considered acceptable for inexperienced fish owners to look after discus fish, however we all must learn some where and if you are really interested in owning your own discus aquarium, then be sure to read up on all of the information that is available to you on discus fish care.


About The Author
The author has created a review site that provides you with the most In-Depth and Complete analysis of the best discus fish care guide on the planet, called Discus Fish Secrets.



Visit the author's web site at:
http://pet-whisperer.com

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1903.shtml

Koi Carp and Breeding for Profit

Koi Carp and Breeding for Profit
by: Tim Warrington



Koi are amazing animals. They have evolved originally from common carp and were originally thought of as throw backs. The koi world has grown massively and is continuing to grow at an unprecedented rate. Years ago if you heard of someone spending £1000 on a fish you may have fell over, in this day and age this is commonplace.

Quick sum for you to get you interested.

Each kilogram of female koi will produce approximately 200000 eggs if you hatch out 100000 eggs and grow the koi to 2-3" which takes approximately 120 days. You will end up with 100000 fish a value of 60p each trade. The cost of arriving at this point is approximately 10p per fish, you now have a profit of 50p per fish = £50000. I hear you ask "why doesn’t everyone do it" Firstly is knowledge, you do need a good degree of knowledge to do this. Secondly is holding capacity you will need a large pool or recirculation system to achieve this. Thirdly, it is a risky business, one thing goes wrong with the system and you loose your entire batch of fish.

So how do you start?

This is a long process and I will post these in 10 parts of ezine.

Part one.

Easy Spawning

When spring is in the air water temperature is at about 15-20 degrees you will notice your fish may go off there food. You may also notice three fish swimming like an arrow around the pool. This is two male fish and the female. The male in front will be looking for a place to spawn. This is the time you put in you brushes. The brushes are like a toilet brush but much softer. These brushes must be placed in the shallow water approx 6-10" deep.

When the fish are ready they will start to thrash over the brushes this normally happens in early morning.

After approximately one hour you will see the brushes are covered with eggs very tiny eggs.

The eggs need to be moved to a separate tank or old bath or the parents will eat them. It is best to treat the eggs with malachite to prevent fungus a quick dip is fine as you don’t want to starve the eggs of oxygen.

The bath or tank must be setup to have running water the flow needs to be 5 liters per minute (very low) you can pump this directly from you pond if you wish. When the water arrives at the tank use an old bed sheet to filter the water. The water needs to be as clean as possible or the tiny little particles will stick in the baby koi gills causing slow growth and death.

The eggs will take approx 3-4days to hatch, then the real fun begins

Next article 18/10/06

About The Author
My name is Tim Warrington i own a company called http://www.aquatico.co.uk , I have been successfully setting up and building koi farms for over 8 years. I built my last fish farm in the desert for food fish, I have bred all sorts of koi/fish and sold them for massive profit, I am here to share this with you in a 10 part series.

How to Choose Water Garden Plants

How to Choose Water Garden Plants
by: Brett Fogle


So the water garden bug has bitten. You’ve dug and leveled and sweated and said words you hope that no one else has heard. Now it’s time for the fun part – picking out your water garden plants!

Plant varieties within these four categories are what you need to eyeball: deep-water, marginals, oxygenators, and floaters. (If you think these words are big words, just be happy we’re not talking about medicine.)

After you’ve diligently planted your new plants in plastic tubs, pans, or clay pots, packing the fertilizer- and chemical-free soil down tightly, load the container down with pea gravel to keep the soil from floating away. (Don’t ask why this works, but it does.) Plunk your plant into the water at the appropriate depth (You’ll read about that in just a minute) and you’re on ready to go!

Plant-dunking should be generally be done during the growing season. For new ponds, wait four or five weeks for the water plants to do their thing before you add your fish. If you just can’t hold your horses, or your fish, for that long, you can jump the gun a couple of weeks, but the idea is to let the plants first get established.

When picking your plants, you’ll no doubt be wowed by water lilies of the tropical persuasion. These aquatic wonders are popular compared to their hardier cousins with knock-out fragrance, big blooms day or night – depending on the variety – and a habit of blooming their little hearts out nearly every day during the growing season. They love their warmth, though, so unless you live in a year-round, warm-weather climate, be prepared to hasten them into a greenhouse or at least muster up some funds to buy them some “grow” lights to tough it out through the winter.

They will definitely bite the dust at freezing temperatures, but give them night-time temps of at least 65F and daytime temps of 75F or warmer, and your love affair with tropicals will only grow that much more torrid.

Hardy water lilies, while not the showboaters that tropicals are, are . . . well, hardier. Their big advantage is that they can stay in the water year ‘round unless it freezes so deeply the rootstock is affected. And being the tough guys they are, you can plant these puppies deeper than the tropicals, some living it up in depths of 8 to 10 feet.

Both hardy and tropical water lilies are real sun worshippers. At least 5 to 10 hours a day is what it takes, along with regular fertilization, to keep these plant pals happy.

Everybody and their brother with a water garden wants a lotus plant. (Sisters, too, no doubt.) These water-lily relatives come in hardy and not-so-hardy strains, so make sure you know what you’re buying. Much bigger than water lilies, lotus have huge, famously splendid blooms that not only will knock your socks off, but make you forget you have feet altogether. Their leaves and seed pods are so breathtaking, they’re a favorite in costly cut-flower arrangements. Big, bold, and beautiful, with water-depth needs of 2-3 feet, these shouters are really better off in big ponds that get plenty of sun.

Marginals (sometimes called “bog” plants by those less high-falutin’) are grass-like plants that strut their stuff in shallow areas no deeper than 6” that border the water garden. They also do well in mud. Cattail, bamboo, rush, papyrus, and many other plants fall into the family of marginals and grow best with a minimum of at least three hours of sun.

Some plants are there but not seen, working stoically under water and without fanfare to fight algae, oxygenate the water, and provide food for fish. (In lieu of these plants, if your pond is small, you can fake it fairly adequately with an aquarium pump.) Easy on the wallet, varieties of these plants can be bought in bunches and like their soil sandy and/or gravelly. Like hardy water lilies, they, too, will warrior it through the winter.

Water hyacinths have become a recent rage, especially for the lazy among us. No soil is required for these beauties. Toss them in the water and they’re “planted.” A water hyacinth ain’t just another pretty face, though; these plants do their part in the war against algae and blanket weeds by keeping sunlight scarce on the water’s surface. But one note of caution: This plant may take over the world if allowed. It’s invasive as all get out, so keep it under control or you (and your neighbors) may wish you’d never laid eyes on it.

A water garden isn't a garden without plants. Take your time, know your climate, and choose wisely. Your rewards will be great in return.

To read the full article, click here:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/July2004/pond-plant-selection.shtml

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com